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Dracula's Castle, Bran, Romania 2010

사람이 마음으로 자기의 길을 계획할 지라도
그의 걸음을 인도하시는 이는 여호와시니라
잠언 16:9
그루지야 (Georgia)
2010.05.20 00:01

border of Europe & Asia, Caucasus

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가마르조바! Gamarjoba! (Hello in georgian)


유럽과 아시아의 경계선인 카프카스 지역 그루지야 트빌리시에 도착하였습니다.

서유럽에서 어차피 터키로 돌아가는 길 그냥 쉽게 발칸 반도를 통해 가면 쉬웠을 텐데

일부러 가보지 못한 동유럽 몰도바 우크라이나 쪽으로 해서 흑해를 건너 왔더니

역시 전혀 알지 못했던 사실들 많이 배우고 느꼈어요.


몰도바는 한국인이 비자가 필요한 나라라서 비엔나에서 일부로 비자까지 받아갔는데

그 비자를 인정해주지 않는 정부가 몰도바 내에 있더군요.

그래서 국경에서 5시간이나 티격태격 하다가 결국 여행 처음으로 검은 돈 20유로 뜯기고

자칭 트란스니스트리아(Transdniestria)라는 나라를 빠져나올 수 있었어요.

정식 국가는 아니지만 화폐도 따로 있고 정부도 군인도 다 몰도바랑 따로 더라고요.

아무튼 무지 상태로 갔다가 재밌는 경험했습니다.

구소련 연방 붕괴 후 독립한 신생국에서 일어나는 민족적 문제인 것 같아요.

그루지야에 남오세티야나 압카지야 문제처럼이요.


여행하면서 느낀 건데 정부가 이상한 나라일수록 이상하게 사람들은 더욱 친절 하더라고요.

목욕할 수 있게 욕조에 물 받아 준 아저씨도 트란스니스트리아에서 만났었거든요.


그렇게 해서 우크라이나로 넘어가 오데사에서 배타고 흑해의 반대편 그루지야 포티 항으로 카프카스 지역에 도착하였어요.

배에서도 재미있는 일이 있었지요.

항구에서 우리 배를 받아 주지 않아 3일 동안 그루지야 연안에 그냥 둥둥 떠 있었어요.

뱃삯에 숙식 포함이라 밥걱정만 안 되면 행복한 저여서 그나마 괜찮았는데

화물선이라 승객의 90%인 트럭 아저씨들은 피해가 막심하더라고요.

저도 뭐 카프카스의 일정이 줄어들어 아르메니아는 포기해야 했지만 어쩔 수 없죠 뭐.

대신 배에 탄 몇몇 안 되는 승객들과 많이 친해졌고요.^^


이제 터키를 북에서 남으로 횡단해 아랍 국가들을 방문합니다.

러시아어를 사용하는 나라들을 중앙아시아와 동유럽을 합쳐 8개국을 다녀

러시아어에 이제 제법 익숙해졌는데 떠나려니 아쉽지만

앞으로 아랍어를 사용하는 또 다른 세계가 펼쳐질 것이 기되 되어 즐겁게 지내고 있습니다.


그럼 다음엔 중동에서 새로운 소식 전할 것을 기약하며 이만 페달 밟으러 가보겠습니다.^^



Small surprise for the non-korean speakers.
Some explanations in english.=)

Let's start in Brasov, Transilvania, Romania.

In this Saxon-rich town you can see some charming buildings like St. Nicholas' Cathedral.

on the way from Brasov to Bran.
No accommondation? No problem! Just camp on the fields.

prepearing my 3 in 1 breakfast wich I bought yesterday in a german hyper market REAL.
With the price difference to the west I could realize that I'm in eastern europe. Hurrah!

Maybe it's necessary in Romania to have a number plate even in a horse carriage.

The Bran Castle, known as the Draculas Castle.

But it's just an invented story.

The house in front of the castle looks more scary than the castle itself.

A small lunch break in the backyard.

Than to the neighbor country Moldova. Moldova became a new country after the collapse of USSR.
Before the soviet time Moldova was a part of Romania. So theire motherlanguage is same.
And the flags are almost the same. The moldovan add an eagle on the middle of the flag.

On the way from Chisinau to Tiraspol I met a man who invited me to his home.
He's giving me a russian style dumpling and a cup of moldovan wine, VINO.
And after the toast he drank it bottoms up. Russian style.
So I did the same and right after, my cup was filled with the next shoot of vino.
After doing the same ten times more he gave me time to eat my dumplings and he went out of the kitchen.

After finnishing my duplings I found my host in the bathroom preparing hot water for me.
This was my first real wash after three countries.

Mr. Misha is a kind of artist. He is a sculptor.

We communicated(or I tried to communicate) in russian, which I still remember some words from central asia.

Next day I arrived in Tiraspol, the second biggest city in Moldova, or..

.. the biggest city in Transdnistria.
Have you ever heard about Transdnistria? Me never, before I entered Tiraspol.

I couldn't see anymore the moldovan flag on the government buildings.
Am I now in another country?

It seems yes, no shops want my moldovan LEI anymore and ask for transdnistrian RUBLE.
So I had to change my moldovan Lei to transdnistiran Ruble, wich is nothing worth if you go out of this territory.

The day when I reached Tiraspol, there was a big parade in the main street.
They were celebrating the 65th aniversary of the victory in WW2 and 20th aniversary of the independence.

Lot of tanks on the street.

and Mr. Lenin of course.

This are the guys who informed me in english that I was standing in Transdnistria.
Alexie and Yujin told me also the long conflict between moldova and transdnistria. (If you're interested you better check in Wikipedia)
They invited me to a Lunch and wanted that I join a BBQ party tonight.
But my transit visa for Moldova was valid just for 48hrs.
So I had to leave Tiraspol to cross the border to Ukraine before midnight.

I arrived at the border early enough before my visa expires.
But the officer wass saying "You're to late."(in russian)
Me: "Kak? Tsitri Vossim bla bla bla..."(What? I entered Moldova 40hrs ago and I still have 8hrs left.)
Officer1: "You are now not in Moldova. Your moldovan visa is not vaild here in Transdnistria. You had 10hrs time to transit Transdnistria, but you were 20hrs in transdnistria."
Me: "There was no border from Chisinau to Tiraspol where starts the transdnistria?"
Officer1: "Bendere."
Oh, I remember there was a small check post and gave me someting. But at that time I didn't understood what it was.
The officer brought me in to a room and another officer came in together.
Officer1 was telling me that I'm in big trouble and the other one was making in silent body motion.
He was doing with his bodylanguage: close one eye with a hand, and with another hand in pocket and give something form the pocket to the officer1. wich means I shoud give him some money and I'll be out of the trouble.
I said "Niet, Dengi Nieto.(No, I do not have money.)"
The officer said than I should go back to moldova or give him 40 US$.
I'll never give you money. I said.
Than he said otherwise I have to go to the bank and pay the fine of 49.75US$.
Ok, I better go to the bank and pay the fine.
I went to the bank close to the border. but the bank was closed.
So went back. "Bank Zakrita."(Bank is closed)
Than he said I have to wait till tomorrow or give him 40$.
I would wait if my official moldovan visa is vaild till tomorrow but is not.
So I had to negotiat with the officer to 20 Euro and I could cross the border to Ukraine.
It was my first black money what I had to give to a officer within 3 years trip though eurasia.

I spent almost 5 hours at the transdnistrian side and reached Ukraine late in the darkness.
So I camped next to the gas station I saw.

Landscape in Ukraine.

Vokzal(Train Station) in Odessa.

Odessa is a nice city. Created from the Catherine ll about 200 years ago.
She invited people from many countries and let them trade without paying any tax.

Opera in odessa, designed in the 1880s by the architects who also designed the famous Vienna State Opera.

Here in the Black Sea is ready to swim in May.

I had problems with my spoke, brake and pedal.
No problem to fix in Odessa.

There is once in a week a ferry going from Odessa to Poti, Georgia.
I had to wait three days in Odessa. I camped three days in the sea side.

Ships over the foggy sea.

Odessa Port.

the Preobrazhensky Cathedral.

Trams in Odessa.

Chapel of St. Dimitri

Our ferry Greifswald

going form Ilychevsk (17km south of Odessa) to Poti.

Friendly georgian roommates.

Greifswald is an big cargo ship.

My roommate Thomas teached me how to play Nardi.

I met also an old german couple travelling with a backpack through east europe.
I hope I can do it as well if I'm in their age with my another half.

The georgian truck drivers likes my big camera.
On the ferry was about 100 passengers and almost 90% was Truck drivers.

The cruise took about 48hrs from Ilychevsk to the coast of Georgia.
But there was something wrong at the port and our ferry could not get in to the harbor.
The captain said Zaftra(tomorrow).

But the next day we were informed again Zaftra(tomorrow).
with Kenneth the motorbike traveller from Norway.

On the third day of waiting in front of the harbor we could finally enter Georgia.
4 nights and 5 days on the ferry, about 100hrs. It was my longest term where I had my feets not on the earth.

I lost my time in the ferry so I took a train from Poti to Gori.

Gori is famous for Stalin's Birthplace.
The Georgian people are very proud of him.
In Gori, lot of name starts with Stalin, like Stalin Ave.

I visited the Stalin Museum.
The museum charts Stalin's journey from the Gori church school to the Yalta Conference at the end of WWll and his death.
His works also in korean.

There is also Stalins privat wagon. He didn't liked to fly.
His chair fits me well.

In the museum I met the norwayan guy Kenneth again.

He took me a ride to another sight, Uplistikhe.

Uplistikhe was once enormous cave city and one of the oldes places of settlement in the Caucasus.
Not so famous like Petra in Jordan or Cappadocia in Turkey but different to each and nice because not so many tourist.

Back on the saddle pedaling to Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia.

Tehran 1239km. I'm getting closer to the city where I las last year.

Mtskheta Cathedral, building form 11th century.
According to tradition, Christ's robe lies buried beneath the cathedral.

Finally I reached the capital city, it's easy to recognizble through the biggest symbol of Georgia.
Tsminda Sameba Cathedral.

Last night in Tblisi I camped at a corner of the train station.

This two guards helped me to find a nice and safe spot in the big city.

I wrote this short comments quickly here in the fastfood restaurand in Tbilisi.
I hope my horrible english writing was understandable.^^;
My next destination is Turkey. I'll cross Tureky from north to south and head to arabic countries.

Marco, Polo and Darius without Marco & Polo.=)

  • ?
    세계를품은人 2010.05.20 00:02


    처음으로 댓글을 다는것 같네요!!

    여행기 잘 보고있어요.

    저는 윤인섭이구요, 21살이고, 현재 대학생입니다.

    어렸을 때부터 세계일주를 죽기전에 한다고 했는데,

    지난 여행TV에서 찰리형님을 뵈었어요. 그 당시 재밌게 보고 넘겼지만,

    현재 공익근무가 10월달에 앞서, 오지탐사대를 지원했었는데요. 2차테스트에서 떨어졌어요.

    파키스탄 K2 곤도고르에 지원했었지만 많은 참가자들에게 밀렸죠.

    그 이후로 뭔가 저의 심장을 강타했는지, 찰리형님이 생각이 나서 들어오게 되었고, 그렇게 2주정도 됐어요.

    찰리형님의 여행기를 보면서 저의 심장을 강타한 무엇인가는 점점 더 커지고 있어요.

    (이상하게 찰리형님께 고백하는듯한.... ㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋ)

    저의 주변일상과 생활들은 저를 낙담시키고 쓰러지게만 만듭니다. 형님이 믿는 큰 빽은 저도 믿고,

    그 믿음가지고 살아갑니다.

    여하튼 형님의 여행기를 보면서 저는 전국일주를 공익근무전에 하기로 했어요.

    친구와 같이 전국일주를 할 계획이구요. 가능하다면 일본까지 갔다오려고 합니다.

    돈이 없는 학생이라 자전거부터 준비할게 너무나 많구요, 형님의 여행기를 보면 힘을 얻습니다.

    이런저런 얘기를 하다가 글이 길어졌네요 ;;;

    형님이라고 처음부터 불러서 죄송하구요^^, 저보다 형님이셔서, 그리고 본받고싶어서 그랬습니다.

    어떤말이라도 괜찮습니다^^, 댓글이라도 달아주신다면 저야 정말 감사할 것 같아요.

    그리고 제가 학교에서 아랍문화를 배우는데요, 물건을 살 때 가격을 부르는 값에 1/10까지도 살수있다하네요.

    형님의 뛰어난 솜씨를 발휘해보세요!! ㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋ

    그리고 늘 건강하시구, 힘내세요!!!

    가슴속에 세계품고살고있습니다!!


    그런데 사진이 엑스박스네요~^^;; 

  • ?
    Charlie 2010.05.20 01:10

    반가워요. 요즘은 다양하게 국방의 의무를 다할 수 있군요.

    코이카 단원도 여행하면서 몇번 만났는데 정말  유익한 것 같아요.

    군대가기 전에 하는 자전거 여행 많은 도움 될 거에요.

    여행 떠나기 전에 많은 것들이 출발을 어렵게 만들더라도 잘 이겨내고요.^^